Inverness, Scotland – The mobile phone stopped working just half an hour’s
drive beyond Inverness. The display said there was no telephone or radio
connection.
Hardly suprising really when all around are nothing but grazing sheep who
generally have little use for cellular telephones. First-time visitors to
the Scottish Highlands are often amazed at how few people live around these
parts.
Mountains, rugged men in kilts, lots of nature, isolation and plenty of
rain – these are the usual cliches that come to mind when one thinks about
the Scottish Highlands. Most of them are accurate.
“After it’s been pouring for a week,” tour guide Helen warned before we set
off, “you start talking to the sheep. After another week of rain, the sheep
start talking back.”
Things don’t necessarily have to deteriorate to that stage. Bad weather
cannot diminish the grandeur of the Highlands and when the sun comes out,
the landscape is a joy to behold.
North of Inverness, the town of 38,000 residents often referred to as the
Capital of the Highlands, the landscape is the stuff of legend and romance.
Craggy coastline, snow-covered peaks, dark, secretive forests and lakes –
the lochs as Scots call them – filled deep with cold, clear water.
Some 80 kilometres north of Inverness on the West Coast the pretty town of
Ullapool nestles on the north bank of Loch Broom. Its neat white-painted
houses are a treat for the eye but there’s not a lot going on in the streets
outside.
There is a museum in Argyll Street though and for 50 pence (around 75 U.S.
cents) tourists can learn about the history of this fishing settlement
founded in 1788.
Ullapool is the home port of ferries that set off to the island of Lewis on
the west coast and the town is a good base for a tour of the region either
on foot or using a mountain bike.
Andrew Bluefield is one of the local guides and for 14 years now his company
North-West Frontiers (Tel: 01854/61 26 28 or www.nwfrontiers.com) on the
Internet has been showing visitors the sights of the region.
“More and more people from the big cities of Europe are coming to the
Highlands to find relaxation and to go hiking,” said Bluefield, who turned
his back on the industrial north of England to settle in Ullapool.
Guided tours have one big advantage over going it alone. Rangers can explain
to the visitor the local geology, flora and fauna of the Highlands, all
about red deer, golden eagles and those shaggy Highland cattle.
Setting off alone is no problem either and along the coast are numerous
well-marked paths.
“Anyone venturing off the beaten track should ask before setting off if
there are any off-limits restrictions for hikers,” advises Richard Lindsay,
who runs a small hostel in Ullapool for tourists who prefer an active
holiday (Scotpackers in West Argyle Street, Tel: 1854/61 31 26. Internet:
www.Scotpackers-hostels.co.uk.
For instance it’s not advisable to start wandering about on the moors during
the grouse shooting season from mid August to mid December while in
conseravtion areas visitors must keep to the proper paths.
Ullapool is surrounded by a upland countryside that enables excellent trips
for hikers and bikers, whether they want to make a day of it or spend a
night somewhere else on their way around. The Scottish mountains, most of
which are less than 1,000 metres high, will not pose much of a challenge to
the seasoned alpinist but they should not be underestimated either.
Mountain climbers are wary of the capricious weather, with sunshine turning
to snow within a matter of minutes. A good pair of walking shoes, rainproof
clothing, a warm pullover, an accurate map and a compass are essential items
to take along on any trip.
In recent years Scotland has been making a special effort to make its
countryside more accessible to nature lovers. Tourist information centres in
many towns and villages have pamphlets and tips on the best routes.
Red and white signs marked “Welcome Walkers” are displayed at guesthouses
and bed and breakfast establishments where walkers can hang up their boots
for the night. Most have drying rooms for wet clothing and daily weather
forecast information.
For the two-wheel fraternity there’s a green and blue version called
“Welcome Cyclist”. Next to hiking, bicycling is one of the best ways to
explore the homeland of the Bravehearts and Rob Roy. Many rural byways often
run parallel to the busier trunk roads, reducing contact with traffic.
The cyclist’s worst enemy – apart from blustery headwinds – are the sheep
who seem reluctant to make way for any other road user once they have
settled down in the middle of the tarmac. A roadsign – triangular with a red
border – warns of larger herds on the hoof.
Visitors who prefer to leave their own bike at home can rent transport from
more than 200 cycle hire centres throughout Scotland. A day’s rental costs
between 7.50 and 30 dollars, with reductions for special arrangements.
Individual tourists centres are usually the best place to ask. The Scottish
Tourist Board also publishes a useful little brochure entitled “Cycling in
Scotland” with addresses and route suggestions.
For more information get in touch with the Scottish Tourist Board, Central
Information Department, 23 Ravelston Terrace, Edinburgh EH4 3EU or on the
Internet:
