Terroir is term derived from the French language, where it is used to describe the environmental factors that alter the expression of a crop like barley (the phenotypic characteristics).These factors can be important as they allow the crop to adapt to different habitats. These factors also influence the farming practices necessary to obtain an optimal crop.
Under these conditions, where scientific approaches are practiced, the word ‘terroir’ is also applied to the overall character of the crop and its destined end product. With this, some wine makers refer to the terroir of a wine made from specific artisanal vines or distillers of mezcal might apply this to agave.
With the development of alcoholic drinks, terroir is most commonly used with French wine, especially with the appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) system. Many French wine makers take the view that the land from which the grapes are grown imparts a unique quality that is specific to that growing site.
The use of the terroir concept is not accepted by all (especially those who regard terroir primarily as a marketing ploy), yet there is a growing body of supportive scientific research within the wine trade.
Whether the concept can be applied to other alcoholic drinks is uncertain, although a recent science paper (2021) has studied the possibility in relation to whisky. This was discussed during June 2021, at a Tomoka tasting session attended by this journalist and the consensus was there is certainly merit in the approach and its application to whisky.
The basis of the study is that the barley variety and its geographical growth location may shape the on the flavor of a spirit. To explore this, new make spirits were produced at a laboratory scale using two different barley varieties (named Olympus and Laureate). These varieties were grown at two distinct environments in Ireland (one in County Kildare the other in County Wexford).
The study was conducted across two consecutive years (2017 and 2018), led by the Teagasc Food Research Centre with support from the Waterford Distillery (Republic of Ireland). Following distillation and a period of maturation, the spirit samples were examined for their chemical composition using gas chromatography mass spectrometry. This technique is used to identify different substances within a test sample.
The analysis revealed some 42 volatiles present across the samples, and of these eight were deemed particularly influential to the aroma of new make spirit. These included chemicals that are essential to the taste and aroma of whisky – ketones, aldehydes, terpenes, sulfur, and furan compounds. These correlated to the barley variety, environment, and the interactions thereof over both seasons.
In relation to the terroir concept the interaction of variety plus the environment had a more significant impact than variety alone.
The results therefore suggest a “terroir” impact on the flavor of new make spirit and hence a potential importance to the production of single malt whisky. This is something that will require further research, especially in relation to the degree the aroma, initial taste, and sensation on the palate of the drinker are perceptually different to the degree finer spirits can be produced which will have sufficient public appeal.
The research appears in the journal Foods, which the research paper titled “The Impact of Terroir on the Flavour of Single Malt Whisk(e)y New Make Spirit.”
