Tunis (dpa) – The former power enjoyed by its rulers seems to come to life for
a few hours when the lights in Tunis illuminate the legendary city of Carthage.
The Tunisian capital is the cradle of a 3,000-year-old civilisation which was
not only a blossoming culture in antiquity.
The Olive Tree Mosque in the old city – the Medina – was built in 732 and
houses what is probably the world’s oldest university. The Bardo Museum
connects the Orient with the West: the 19th Century harem is today home to a
beautiful collection of Roman mosaics.
But the majority of tourists are attracted to the small North African country,
which is wedged between Algeria and Libya, less by the desire to make cultural
discoveries. It is 300 days of sun a year which promise ideal holiday weather
and is only two hours by plane from Europe’s cheerless climate. Because of its
closeness to the desert, the summers are hot but never too muggy. A stay in the
Sahara is even good for the health, especially for asthma and
rheumatism.
Like nowhere else in North Africa, the artists’ village of Sidi Bou Said, on
the hill above Tunis, combines the fabulous charm of the Thousand and One
Nights and the picturesque landscape of the Mediterranean. Dazzling white
houses contrast with richly ornamented blue doors, windows and merrily tiled
floors. At sunset, when the sun sinks behind the bay, a perfect place to be is
overlooking the sea on the Terrasse des Cafes Sidi Chabaane sipping a tiny and
relaxing glass of mint tea.
Tunisia’s north coast is still largely undiscovered by the tourist throngs,
which is surprising; its coral coast is a paradise for divers.
Although accommodation can be found in in the picturesque town of Tabarka and,
further to the east, the fishing village of Bizerte, tourists undoubtedly
prefer the livelier and far more comfortable resorts on the east coast:
Hammamet, Sousse, Port Kantaoui and the harbour town of Monastir. The island of
Djerba, linked to the mainland by the Roman-built El Kantara causeway, is
characterised by rural charm and its countless palm and olive trees.
The clear, turquoise-coloured sea and the island’s white beaches go to form the
background for a bathing holiday guaranteed to please.
The Sahara starts only around four hours’ car drive from Djerba, but there are
also flights from Djerba and Zarzis to Tozeur. Anyone who can, is well advised
to extend their holiday by three or four days for a trip to the Sahara. At
night, the desert is still and covered by a canopy of stars – an encounter with
infinity.
The experience can be further heightened by taking a few days off as a nomad,
by dispensing with daily comforts and making do with a camel and a tent.
Alternatively, there are plenty of first-class yet reasonably priced hotel
complexes which have sprung up over the last few years around the oases of
Tozeur, Nefta and Tamerza. Thankfully, the southern Tunisian desert is free of
the unfinished hotel constructions typical of other resorts.
The Tamerza Palace Hotel, for example, provides a beautiful view over the
deserted town of Tamerza, framed by sand, oasis and mountaing range. Sometime
during a heavy rainfall, the city was washed away down to its foundations. Only
two white domes now rise from the former settlement, one of the marks the grave
of the marabout, an old, wise healer.
The area is full of interesting sites waiting to be discovered: the canyon and
waterfall at Mides, the mountain oasis at Chebika, where the lush green palm
leaves rise from the steep cliff, minarets and springs in Nefta, or Ong Jemel,
the set used in the film “The English Patient” and “Star Wars: Episode 1”. The
setting for “Star Wars” has become something of a tourist attraction.
The village of the film’s little lead character Anakin Skywalker lies in the
middle of the desert 15 kilometres from the Algerian border and is open for
tours. Trips in four-wheel drives, safaris and camel rides are also offered
there by both German and Tunisian travel agents.
An unforgettable experience is a ride in a hot-air ballon over the Sahara.
Early in the morning grey, when the pink sun rises over the undulating sand
dunes, is a perfect time to take unbelievable photos. The large oasis at
Tozeur – it covers 40 square kilometres – is charming too with its 200,000 date
palms and enchanting architecture.
The town’s 1,300 families own parcels of land where they grow dates, bananas,
peaches, pomegranates and henna. The best dates are harvested in November. Even
centuries ago, the sheikhs and princes from the emirates recognised the
excellence of Tunisian dates.
The houses of Tozeur’s 35,000 residents are actually outside the oasis so that
every available space of fertile land can be used for agriculture. One
exception is Nifer campsite which has a swimming pool, restaurant and
entertainment, and is ideal for vacationers on a tight budget.
The private museum Dar Cherait is new to Tozeur. Its main attraction is a
perfectly reconstructed 19th century house with tiles, stucco ceilings,
furniture, weapons and ceremonial costumes. Other displays show a Turkish bath
and an old-fashioned kitchen. And in the museum grounds is a fairy-tail park
where, with the help of multimedia technology, visitors are taken on a voyage
to the world of Sheherazade from Thousand and One Nights.
Anyone familiar with German adventure-writer Karl May will know what a “shott”
is. On the partially dried-out salt lake at El Djerid, May’s hero Kara Ben
Nemsi experienced some of his most dangerous adventures. Today, the surface of
the shott, which can be a dry lake or watercourse, can often give way suddenly
and unexpectedly beyond the marked path.
Douz, the last gateway to the endless desert, is a classic Sahara village.
Shops here supply everything you need for a safari. On Thursdays, when the
farmers and semi-nomadic people come to trade at the oases in the area, the
quiet palm garden becomes a lively and colourful market. Souvenir hunters can
find all sorts of artefacts, from beautiful Berber jewelly, strange-looking
shoes made of camel leather, felt caps and oriental cushions. A very special
momento are the sand roses which can be bought here for one or two dinars. The
rose-shaped minerals lie hidden in the sand but are very difficult to
find.
The yearly climax of village life takes place in winter. At the Sahara
Festival, camel and greyhound races are held, and dances and traditional
marriages are celebrated. This year it is being held between 8 and 11 November
in Douz.
INFORMATION: Tunisia
DESTINATION: Tunisia is in North Africa, forming a wedge between the
politically volatile countries of Algeria and Libya.
TRAVEL AND FORMALITIES: The main airports are at Djerba, Monastir, Sfax,
Tabarka, Tozeur and Tunis.
HEALTH: No vaccinations are necessary for visitors from western Europe.
CLIMATE: In the north, the weather is mild with little rainfall. The bathing
season runs from April to the end of October, warm clothes and rain gear should
also be taken. In southern Tunisia, temperatures are on average five degrees
above those in the north, with daytime summer temperatures reaching 40 degrees.
In winter, night temperatures can sink to below freezing.
CURRENCY: One U.S. dollar buys around 1.30 Tunisian dinars
LANGUAGE: The official languages are Arabic and French. English and German are
understood in tourist areas.
