In many parts of the world, and in the U.K. in particular, gin is back in fashion. After decades of very citrus flavored fare being provided by mass produced companies, a number of gin companies have sprung up, often producing gin in the small batches and experimenting with different botanicals to enhance and enrich the flavor.
Tomoka is a boutique in St. Albans that stocks the finest champagne and spirits. There are two areas, in relation to spirits, that the company specializes in: whisky and gin. At regular intervals tasting events are held allowing drinks enthusiasts to try out different brands. The events are held at the Mokoko cocktail bar and this month an eclectic selection of gins were there to be sampled.
The theme of the tasting event was navy strength gin, and to illustrate the difference between standard strength gin and ‘navy strength’ both examples were provided from three different brands.
Before running through the selection, a little about ‘navy strength’ (as the participants learnt from the knowledgeable hosts.) Navy strength relates to a time, in the eighteenth century, when Royal Navy actually legislates that a certain quantity of gin must be on board every vessel (this was for officers, sailors drank rum.) Because of a concern that gin was being diluted, a test was introduced where a little gin was mixed with gunpowder. If gin was spilt onto gunpowder, and it only smoked or failed to light it was considered to be diluted gin; if the gin-soaked gunpowder lit up, then the gin was of the appropriate – Navy – strength. For gin to do this, it has to be at least 57 percent proof. It is this alcohol content that separates standard gin (normally between 40 and 43 percent alcohol by volume) and Navy strength (around 57 to 60 percent.)
Some might wonder why bother with Navy strength, especially as it comes with a higher price tag. The answer is the greater flavor. Here the botanicals really burst out. The only thing to beware of is remembering that the gin is stronger and to add a little less to the glass.
Gin is made from neutral grain with complicated botanical flavors overlaying predominant juniper notes. The various botanicals are based on secret recipes, unique to each distillery, designed to bring out fruit or spice elements (for more on botanicals see Digital Journal’s review of the Bombay Sapphire distillery here.) There are three types of gin – standard, premium and London Dry.
To the tastings. First up was Blackwood’s Vintage Gin (at 40 percent.) This is the first gin to use local botanical ingredients from Shetland, the islands lying at the far North of Scotland. It is a dry gin that uses mint, sea pink, angelica and juniper berries, plus seven other botanicals. The gin is slightly sweet and the flavors really ease out after a few sips.
Digital Journal rating 6 out of 10.
To compare Blackwood’s standard offering, second to be sampled was Blackwood’s Vintage Gin at 60 percent. This is a limited edition gin, with only 22,000 bottles made each year (22,000 is the population of the Shetland Islands.) This gin is exceptionally smooth and it has delicate flavor. The flavor is far more distinctive in the stronger version.
Digital Journal rating 7 out of 10.
Gin’s revival has led to an explosion of micro distilleries in the past few years, including Sipsmith, and two offerings from this London-based distillery were on offer. The first to be sampled was Sipsmith London Dry Gin (40 percent.) The most immediate thing with this gin is the distinctive smell of juniper. Sipsmith London Dry Gin is distilled with 10 botanicals carefully selected to provide a very dry balance compared to other London Dry Gins. This is a very dry gin indeed, with plenty of juniper mixed with lemon tart and orange marmalade flavors, and just a touch of spice.
Digital Journal rating 6 out of 10.
In 2009, Sipsmith introduced London’s first copper-pot still in nearly 200 years (named ‘Prudence’.) This dedication to the craft was really apparent with the second offering – Sipsmith VJOP (the VJOP stands for “Very Junipery Over Proof.”) So if you like fresh, peppery berries this is the gin for you. The process for making this gin uses an additional vapor infusion process in order back extra juniper flavors in.
Digital Journal rating 8 out of 10.
The fifth gin tasted was Pickering’s gin. This gin, made in Edinburgh, is another newcomer. However, the gin is based on an original Bombay recipe (dating back to the days of the British Raj.) The range of botanicals on offer in each sip includes juniper, lemon, lime, coriander, anise, angelica, cardamom, clove and fennel. This means there is an enticing mix of citrus and earthy notes. Sipping it reveals lively citrus and a satisfying herbal finish.
Digital Journal rating 6 out of 10.
Finally, Pickering’s Navy Strength gin was sampled. This is the official gin of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Each bottle distinctively comes with a mini bearskin hat and neck tag. It is made with the same botanicals as the classic expression, but here the flavors really shine out. There is a delicious freshness and smoothness, and the citrus, lavender and cinnamon dominate.
Digital Journal rating 9 out of 10.
This made Pickering’s Navy Strength Digital Journal’s winning gin of the night, although each one was a good choice and well selected by the Tomoka team. The evening was livened by some interesting commentary and tasting notes accompanied by a little history.
Each gin was tried with and without tonic water. The tonic waster supplied was by Fever Tree. This tonic water contains quinine, subtle botanicals, soft spring water and small bubbles. Whether tonic water is needed is very much a matter of personal taste.
A fun tasting, may the gin revival continue!
