NAIROBI (dpa) – When in Kenya, do as the Kenyans do. When introduced to a Massai woman, don’t offer to kiss her hand. Spit on it instead.
A nice juicy wad of stranger’s saliva on a lady’s palm is considered not only polite, it is a gesture of good luck amongst the Massai of both sexes.And for heaven’s sake don’t say, “How do you do?” Rather, ask, “How do your cattle do?” That’s considered good form among these nomadic herders.Kenya is a land of contrasts and many cultures, and greetings vary from tribe to tribe, region to region.In northern Kenya you don’t offer your hand, you offer your head. You bow forward so that the person greeting you can slap the top of your head. Not hard. Gentle, friendly sorts of playful slaps.And if you are down amongst the Luyia people in the Lake Victoria area, you shake hands and both of you clasp your right forearms with your left hands – as if to say, “I’m offering you every hand I’ve got.”Knees play a role in the greeting rituals if the Teso people near Mount Elgon on the borders to Uganda. Before shaking your hand, the Tesos will drop to their knees in a sign of deference and respect.And in general in Kenya, anyone who offers you a friendly “jambo” in greeting will expect you to respond with a cordial “habari?”It means “How are things?” But don’t expect a simple “fine” in answer. Instead, hunker down for a protracted monologue on home, hearth, children, parents, in-laws and their assorted ailments and annoying habits.There are subtleties, of course. Ask someone whether his goats are over their bout with scabies and, if you get a grunted “nzuri” as a reply, well, you know how to respond when he asks you about your flock.Just grunt “nzuri” back at him. It means “as well as could be expected”. Roughly.If you are a woman you can expect to be greeted with “jambo mama” on the street. That is a term of affection and applies whether you have any offspring or not.The same applies to a man being affectionately called “mzee” (oldtimer) in casual company.And it is a sign of respect on the coast when you meet a younger person on a beach path who offers you the Swahili greeting “shika muo” and steps aside to permit you to pass.All you do is smile and walk past him saying, “Mara haba mwanangu” – “Am I fine, or am I fine, you little whipper-snapper?”It’s called being polite.
