ANTALYA (dpa) – If all you see of Antalya, the southern Turkish seaside holiday destination, is the beach, then you are missing a journey into ancient civilisations.
Even when the sun is blazing and the beaches seem the best place to cool off, it is well worth making a few excursions into the surrounding countryside in the Taurus Mountains, which are snow- capped even in summer.In Taurus, 35 kilometres north of Antalya, is Termessos, which in antiquity was a fortress between two steep mountain peaks. The town can only be reached over a winding mountain slope.The fortress is reached via a slippery path and only the physically fit should attempt it. Clouds billow out of the gorge around the flanks of the mountains and the contours of the Greek- Roman ruins gradually appear through the mist.The most spectacular building is a theatre perched on the precipice. But no less impressive is the burial ground with giant sarcophagi that have crashed down on top of each other. It must have been an enormous undertaking in antiquity to make and erect these huge stones that are decorated with reliefs.The town is believed to have been deserted by its inhabitants after an earthquake. When we were among the few visitors who made it here, we stayed until sundown to play a classical music cassette in the theatre.The E24 road from Antalya to Burdur, one of the most important connections between the coast and inner Anatolia, ends in a winding, accident-prone mountain road.On the side-road to Isparta, above the small town of Aglasun, is the fortress of Sakcagoz. This was also an ancient stronghold. Alexander the Great conquered it in 333 only after heavy fighting. The Roman occupiers built a public baths complex, an odium, in which festivals were celebrated, and a theatre.Archaeologists have been excavating and restoring the site since 1990. But the imposing theatre has so far been left untouched.Earthquakes have split through the seating on both sides and fig trees and oleander have grown through the cracks. From the stands you can look down over the ancient rock tombs and the expansive, fertile valley.Another excursion from the coast is eastwards to Alanya. Not far from the main road number 400 are the antique towns of Perge and Aspendos, favourite tourist destinations with plenty of restaurants, souvenir stalls, jewellers and carpet sellers. They cater to many different nationalities.Visitors to Perge climb on the remains of columns and architraves to have their pictures taken, and despite all the appeals, leave their litter behind them. There is a steady supply of tourist buses in front of the astoundingly well-preserved theatre in Aspendos.The splendid Roman ruins in Side are also tightly in the hands of tourism. The once modest village now has a giant bazaar and many hotels.But the ancient mountain nest of Selge is off the beaten tourist track. In the past it was hardly possible to reach by car, but now the route, 55 kilometres from the main road, is two-thirds complete, the rest can be done in a four-wheel drive or by foot.The houses in Selge still maintain their old character. Many of them have large, freestanding verandas. Women and girls wear traditional gowns, sit at looms, and bake bread on heated stones and wash clothes at the river.Only the school building with the obligatory Ataturk monument, is reminiscent of the modern age. The ancient theatre is visible from the village, cows and goats graze in the meadows between a Temple to Zeus and another dedicated to Artemis, and farmers drive their cattle over the ancient marketplace. Women laden with giant bundles on their backs, walk through the ancient city gate.Legend has it that refugees from Troy settled here. Selge was able to maintain its independence longer than the coastal villages. They traded mainly in wine, incense, resins and essences.The wood that built ancient fleets of ships in those days also came from the Taurus mountain forests.Like in many other ancient sites in Turkey, there is a lot of restoration work and conservation to be done in Selge. But until it is carried out, it offers visitors a fascinating trip back in time.
