Mexico City (dpa) – It’s as typically Mexican as tortillas, mariachis or
sombreros. In Mexico City’s restaurants, the agave schnapps is drunk with
pleasure as both an aperitif and an after dinner drink; in dimly-lit cantinas,
the 80 proof drink inspires machos to sing melancholy melodies.
But an ever growing number of fans are enjoying tequila far beyond the borders
of its home, whether as a mixed drink like a margarita or tequila sunrise, or
straight up with salt and lime. Of the 190 million litres produced last year,
97 million were exported.
Yet tequila’s victory rally around the world could end abrubtly. It’s the blue
agave’s fault, the basic stuff of which the distillate is made. It just doesn’t
want to grow as fast as the world’s thirst for it.
The alarm bells are sounding among tequila producers centred around the small
town of Tequila in the state of Jalisco, about 600 kilometres west of Mexico
City. Within one year, agave prices there have skyrocketed from 850 to 4,500
pesos (90 to 480 dollars) per ton.
The blue agave plant grows exclusively in this region of Mexico, and needs at
least eight years to reach maturity. Then the jimadores cut off the tough,
sword-shaped leaves and expose the seed, which resembles a huge pineapple. The
agave is then cooked, ground and fermented in Tequila’s factories.
Agave prices were in the cellar in the early 1990s, which prompted some farmers
to plant maize instead. Industry insiders say no one predicted the tequila boom
of the past few years, with production doubling during the last five years
alone. Tequila producers can’t suddenly increase the agave supply, because of
the plant’s slow growth cycle.
“In Germany, they practically grab the tequila out of our hands,” says Ramon
Gonzalez, director of the Consejo Regulador del Tequila, a body set up by
producers.
Yet Gonzalez assures that tequila production is not at risk. The committee is
planning to soon begin a complete stock-taking of the current agave plant
situation. Gonzalez says that rising prices are normal: “The whole world is
after the same agave.”
Outside of Mexico, the United States is the main consumer of tequila, with
almost 80 million litres. But Europe is cathing up quickly; it imported 12
million litres in 1999, up from eight million in 1998. The Netherlands are the
single biggest single consumer with 3.76 million litres imported last year,
ahead of the Germans with 2.6 million litres.
According to Gonzalez, a trademark protection treaty contributed to tequila’s
success on the continent. Under the terms of the treaty, only genuine agave
juice from Mexico may be sold as tequila in the European Union.
Average Mexican consumers, meanwhile, reeling from the pain of several ecomomic
crises at once, have to dig deeper and deeper into their pockets these days to
be able to enjoy their national drink.
A bottle of ordinary tequila can hardly be found anymore for under 7.45
dollars – twice the amount of money an average worker makes in a day. Top
brands are going for up to 215 dollars a bottle.
But there are more and more classy establishments springing up in the capital
for those who have a taste for the tequila and the necessary pocket
change.
Behind the cathedral, the Bar Casa de las Sirenas offers no less than 250
different varieties. And while farmers are happy with their fat profits, the
industry is contemplating how they can teach the agave to grow faster.
Producers are even reported to be seriously considering genetic manipulation,
which is not just some crazy idea they schemed up in a bar.
