KUALA LUMPUR (dpa) – For decades self-styled serious Asian travellers have looked down on Kuala Lumpur.
But the 1997 Asian financial crisis and its aftermath means that the Malaysian capital has been throwing off its image as a sleepy post-colonial town.For anyone returning to Kuala Lumpur after a break of six years or more, the city appears almost unrecognizable.The once relatively sparsely developed area known as the Golden Triangle, which was home to a cluster of international hotels, has been transformed by the arrival of big money that has accompanied Malaysia’s fast-paced economic development.The big international hotels are still there but the Golden Triangle has now emerged as a fast-paced banking and finance district dominated by gleaming skyscrapers and a vast collection of bars, restaurants and a vibrant nightlife.Overlooking the area are the twin towers of the silver-coloured Petronas building. Topped by Islamic-style minarets, the Petronas Towers now claims to be the world’s tallest building.A comfortable walk away is Jalan Pinang (Pinang Street) which has also been transformed by the economic changes that took hold in Asia about five years ago into long stretch of shopping plazas.A 20-minute taxi ride is the city’s bustling Chinatown and Little India. With their network of small streets, shops, restaurants and markets, both districts offer a glimpse of old Kuala Lumpur.At night in Chinatown there is an extensive market (Jalan Petaling) with an endless choice of food, cheap goods and designer fakes. A fake Rolex watch sells for about 30 dollars, depending on your bargaining skills.Nearby are the splendid Kuala Lumpur railway and the Sultan Abdul Samad building on Merdeka Square which point to Malaysia’s British colonial past and are fine examples of Moorish-colonial architecture.Despite the changes that have emerged in recent years, Merdeka Square (Independence Square) remains at Kuala Lumpur’s heart. Along one side is the Royal Selangor Club, where KL’s elite still meet.Another short walk away and behind Kuala Lumpur’s main city’s mosque is the capital’s extensive new Islamic Museum, which showcases a vast array of Moslem art and the history of Islamic architecture.But one of Kuala Lumpur’s major attractions is its food. With its three main communities – Malay, Chinese and Indian – Kuala Lumpur is one of the great food capitals of Asia.Considering the enormity of the choice of restaurants and eating places, drawing up a list of recommendations would seem to be beyond even the most enthusiastic of food reviewers.Modern Kuala Lumpur seems also to be experimenting with fusion food. It is probably one of the few cities in the world offering Japanese pizzas.The rapid development of Kuala Lumpur’s shopping culture has meant that the city’s once hawker food culture – consisting of street food stalls – has been converting into shopping malls.Here in vast open spaces bustling with people it is possible to have Chinese dim sim as a starter, before kicking on to a splendid Indian curry for main course and then finish off with a Malay regional dessert.