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Clear Water, Splendid Villas And Narrow Lanes: Lake Como

COMO, Italy (dpa) – Lake Como had its devotees even in early times. Ligurians and Etruscans were attracted to its shore, as were Greeks and Romans. Virgil sang of the lake’s beauty and composer Franz Lizst could hardly hear enough of the “melancholy murmur of the waves”.

“When you write about two happy lovers, let the story be set on the banks of Lake Como,” the composer noted.

The Larius, as the lake is also known from its antique name Lacus Larius, was created by three glaciers that left three fjords behind when they receded at the end of the last Ice Age. It is 50 kilometres long and up to four kilometres wide.

Steeply rising 2,000-metre mountains in the north surround it like a protective arm and ensure a pleasant climate throughout the year.

Bellagio is considered the “Pearl of Lake Como”. It is located at the outermost point of a peninsula which divides the southern part of the lake into two arms. Elegant hotels and stylish cafes line the promenade.

Narrow crooked lanes and steps that snuggle against Monte Garnasca are part of the mediaeval-like townscape.

The entire town is closely interlocked. Small boutiques or guest- houses have established themselves throughout. The restaurants and cafes are well filled.

In the Pescallo district it is quieter in comparison. The tiny fishing village, about 30 minutes’ walk from Bellagio is situated on Lago di Lecco. Here you can have a view of the lake free of charge to accompany the freshly-caught fish served on the terrace of a small restaurant.

The waiter also recommends that his guests visit the Church of the Madonna di Ghisello. Pope Pius XII named the Madonna patron saint of cyclists in 1949 and bicycles as well as other relics of professional cycling hang in the roof and on the walls of the building, which is concealed in the mountains.

You can easily spend a week in Bellagio. However, things become tight in the narrow streets on summer weekends when the large pleasure boats discharge hundreds of passengers.

Actually, Gianfranco Bucher should be happy about the deluge of visitors, as president of the tourism association of Como region.

“But sometimes simply too many people invade Bellagio,” Bucher says.

The climate in Bellagio is so mild that subtropical plants flourish splendidly there.

The botanical beauty can be best explored in the afternoon when the sun casts a warm glow on the villa. Another rewarding experience is a visit to the well-tended park of Villa Melzi. This is an oasis of peace and quiet.

A white fairy-tale castle on the opposite bank near Tremezzo beams across the lake.

It is the Villa Carlotta, built by wealthy Milan banker and president of the Lombardian Senate Marquis Giorgio Clerici in 1747. It now houses an art collection and is surrounded by a park in which hundreds of azaleas and rhododendrons bloom in springtime.

The embankment leads towards Como, the region’s historical, cultural and commercial centre. Como started developing into a silk city in the 15th century. At that time, Lorenzo il Manificio, a ruler from the House of the Medicis, ordered the planting of mulberry trees, the leaves of which served as food for silkworms.

Although the silkworms were reared only until World War II, the city is the European centre for processing imported silk to this day. Many elegant shops in the virtual automobile-free city-centre offer silk luxury goods.

The outlets of Italian fashion designers also arouse expensive desires.

It is cheaper simply to stroll through the intertwined streets and to enjoy a cappuccino on the cathedral square with a view of the church. Or, you can stroll along the promenade and visit the neo- classical Volta Temple. There the city honours one of its greatest sons, the physicist Alessandro Volta, with a museum.

“You have the best view of Como and the lake from the small town of Brunate,” Gianfranco Bucher advised. The cog-railway brings visitors to the 716-metre-high viewing point in just over five minutes.

The city’s church towers stand far below, the grand villas gleam from the opposite bank and the snow-covered peaks of the Alps greet one from afar.

The eastern bank of Lake Como, forgotten by tourism to a large extent, surprises visitors with its coarse beauty.

Many consider Varenna the most beautiful place on the lake. The village of 800 souls nestles against the steep bank like an eagle’s nest. Many of the intertwined houses appear to have actually grown into the mountainside. If you make the effort and climb up to the Castello di Vezio; you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view.

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