MERZOUGA, Morocco (dpa) – The ultimate desert experience awaits travellers bent on viewing the rolling dunes of the Sahara from the saddles of camels but the venture is not for the faint-hearted.
“You can change your mind and come back,” taxi and bus drivers tell the adventure-seeking foreigners they bring to the tiny Moroccan village of Merzouga with its hotels and other accommodation, the last before jeeps carry the hardiest over the stony terrain to the massive dunes known as “Erg Chebbi”.Witnessing the changes of colour on the sands from pink to gold to red depending upon the time of day is often described as “magical,” but at the price of a sore bottom.At “La Belle Etoile,” up to 300 black tents and a lodge are manned by Berber tribesmen eager to make the camel treks far more memorable than viewing the panorama from the distance without venturing onto the sands.“Some come out here from a hotel to watch the sunrise or sunset and are immediately whisked back, but they miss so much,” said Mohamad Achabou, a 20-year-old Berber helping new arrivals climb onto the saddles of the crouching camels, tucking water bottles securely into niches and making sure the riders stay on despite the swaying motion.Cameras and other equipment are carried by the experienced guides leading the way up the gentler dunes and around the steeper ones.“No problem, no problem,” is a familiar refrain, as nervous first- timers are repeatedly reassured they won’t fall off as long as they hold on properly. The absence of stirrups makes gripping the camel’s sides a tricky task.Head coverings, shirts with long sleeves, pants and the strongest sunshields are a must with temperatures exceeding 40 degrees Celsius even in the late afternoons.Sunglasses help protect eyes from unpredicable gusts of sands that sometimes persist for uncomfortably long periods.“You’re lucky the wind is easing,” another guide told four Japanese gamely clutching their saddles with one hand while holding scarves over their faces with the other. “Sometimes it keeps up all the way.”The biggest and most awesome dunes reach 200 metres, but the camels stop as soon as the inclines become too steep.Riders dismount and climb the rest of the way to the optimum viewing points, or as far as they can make it.“That was a surprise,” said American Amanda Grove, who thought she would be riding all the way and found scaling the sand daunting until she followed the guide’s example and removed her shoes.Others did the same, finding the sand warm but not uncomfortable even without socks.“I wouldn’t recommend this for people who are not reasonably fit,” said Grove, accompanied by a panting companion.Some slumped on edges of midway dunes with their water bottles, balking at further exertions, but most made it to the best spots for watching the dramatic panorama of changing hues at sunset. Dunes in every direction amplify the spectacle.“It’s almost spiritual,” observed an Italian trekker.Sliding down the dunes to the relaxing camels is far easier than the upward journey.By the time the animals have completed the trip in darkness, the initial inclination of most disembarking is a long shower to remove sand plastered inside and outside their clothing.The more exhausted opt to lie down on the carpets in the nearby lodge while the hospitable Berbers place cold compresses on faces and supply cold drinks for relief.“It’s more rugged than I expected,” said Italian cardiologist Pierluigi Colonna. Several of the participants in the group he was with found the going tough and none opted to repeat the experience at sunrise.“Once is enough,” he quipped, over a dinner of traditional Moroccan fare consisting of heaping portions of spicy soup, salad, meat and vegetable stews, fresh breads, and fruit to the accompaniment of Berber musicians under the starry desert sky.Those still feeling energetic are encouraged to join in the dancing.Don’t count on an uninterrupted sleep. The sound of sand pelting the tent in the wind is among the distractions. Particles spewing through the entrance and sifting through the most minute openings in the top is another.Occupants stretching out on the slim mattresses kept busy brushing the sand from the sheets and seeking clean corners covered by mats in the darkness.Even a dash to the toilets in a separate structure is daunting when visibility is limited by swirling sand.“A sense of humour goes a long way in situations like this,” said a European keeping up the spirits of his tentmates. Those with the stamina for the 4 a.m. sunrise trek were few, but considered the second jaunt easier with the temperatures lower and the sand cooler.No one regarded the desert experience as lessened by the discomforts. “This was a highlight of my travelling experiences,” said a British woman in her 60s.“I’ll never forget it, although I don’t know if I’ll repeat it.”