Michael Cosgrove
"Space City" - Swimming pool, Lyon France
It can be very hot here in Lyon, even in spring. That was the case a couple of days ago when I was forced to leave my apartment in order to seek some fresh air down by the Rhône, five minutes walk away.
The Rhône is one of Europe’s biggest rivers and it runs from Switzerland down to the Mediterranean Sea. It has played an essential part in Lyon’s history, notably so before the railroads were built, during which time it was the lifeblood of the city’s commercial activity.
The Rhône has been developed to the point where it now supplies 25 percent of all the hydro-energy produced in France, which makes it a key element of the country’s economic fabric.
Fifteen years ago however, the riverbanks consisted of end to end car parks which emptied in the evening to give way to local drug dealers and the worst side of the city’s prostitute and gay communities. There was little or no lighting there and most of Lyon didn’t know, and didn’t even want to know, what went on down there.
How things have changed. It’s almost unbelievable. I have a hard time imagining those days now.
There are bars, terraces and restaurants on gaily-painted boats and barges moored to the quayside, landscaping has been extensive, music and people having fun are everywhere, the whole place is lit up and festive even on an ordinary night and, as you shall see, the river’s beautiful bridges and the majestic buildings on either side of them have been illuminated in what must be one of the most tastefully lightscaped scenes in all of Europe.
I took these pictures between 9 and 11pm, and there were people of all ages everywhere to be seen, from tiny tots to grandmas. A wonderful sight.
Enjoy the walk.
The picture at the top of the article is of one of the three decorative towers that make the Riverside Swimming Pool a beacon here. People call it “Space City.” As I walked past I could see the coloured lights and hear the dance music that was going on in the main pool, which shall be filled with water next week.
Here is the University Bridge, built in 1918. It was of a revolutionary design at the time because of its combined use of a reinforced concrete platform combined with a steel structure, both of which are supported by piles of local stone.
Michael Cosgrove
The University Bridge, Lyon France
A little further along you come across a place to sit down and rest. This stepped esplanade, with its children’s splash-pools and skateboard bowls, is a great place to sit down and take in the view of downtown, which is on the other side of the river.
Michael Cosgrove
Riverside Esplanade, Lyon France
If ever you happen to sit down on those steps, you will see the “Baby Factory”, in other words the place where all people in Lyon were born until recently, on the other side of the river. Local clinics have taken over the job since, but the building remains a landmark in the history of Lyon. No-one who lives here doesn’t know at least a few people who were born there, and I am no exception.
Michael Cosgrove
Hotel Dieu ('Baby Factory') Lyon France
I sat down for a couple of minutes, but soon got up to go check out the pulsing music I could hear pounding down from the street above. When I got up there I saw a couple of hundred people grooving to some very strange techno-style music. They had just set up the gig there, complete with lorry-mounted stage and what sounded to me like a very good quality sound system. Small but beautiful. Good vibes and no police to be seen.
Michael Cosgrove
Techno stage, Lyon France
I talked to Ludovic, the gig’s organiser. He told me that the music was produced uniquely using Game-boys, Ataris and a 60’s Commodore. When I asked him how he’d define the music he said, fervently and unhesitatingly, “This is the New Wave of Anarchist Electronic Punk.” He offered me a beer and I accepted gladly (phew, it was hot!) before going back down to the river.
Thanks for the beer Ludovic!
Michael Cosgrove
DJ Ludovic, Lyon France
Next up is this classically beautiful stone bridge, the Wilson Bridge, which was reconstructed in 1947 after being destroyed during the Wehrmacht’s retreat from the city back towards Germany in an attempt to hinder the Allied troops who were closing in on them on their way up from Italy. A wonderfully well-proportioned structure by any standards.
Michael Cosgrove
Wilson Bridge, Lyon France
This is my favourite bar on the Rhône. It’s called the Mistral. Funky music and the cream of the flora and fauna of Lyon’s rock and roll nightlife hang out here before going on to clubs, some of which are also on boats along the quay-sides.
Michael Cosgrove
The Mistral Boat Bar, Lyon France
Many of the bridges here have light displays upon their land pillars to celebrate the memory of famous personalities. This one is in honour of Marie Curie, the only woman ever to win two Nobel Prizes. She won them for her contributions to physics research, and she died of leukemia in 1934 after years of over-exposure to the very radioactive substances she was studying.
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Michael Cosgrove
Marie Curie light display, Lyon France
This is one of the many good restaurants which line the banks of the Rhône. Don’t bother turning up here at 9pm looking for a table if you haven’t already reserved. This place is packed all summer long. The blue light up in the top left-hand corner is the roof of Lyon’s Opera House.
Michael Cosgrove
Barge restaurant, Lyon France
Just near that boat was a guy showing off his fire-juggler’s prowess for the pleasure of all. The children adored it and literally shouted “More, more, more!” when he stopped to take a break.
Michael Cosgrove
Fire-Juggler, Lyon France
The French Republic in all its splendour, as shown in this detail from the Lafayette Bridge, built in 1890 in honour of the French General and politician of that name. This bridge was partially destroyed by the Wermacht’s retreat, but didn’t need to be rebuilt. Repairs were enough to give its splendid architecture back to the people of Lyon.
Michael Cosgrove
Lafayette Bridge, Lyon France
I finally left the river to walk home, just as amazed as I am every year by the life and vitality that have transformed the banks of the Rhône river into a thriving and living spectacle that would surely enchant any visitor to Lyon. It all begins in April and lasts until October, and I shall be down there every couple of days until winter sets in.
But even when winter sets in there are still people there. Here is a cosy and rustic barge-home, one of several, just on the edge of all the downtown action.
I could hear the laughing and chatting coming from the dinner table, drifting over to me in the balmy air that was whispering upon the river.... and guiding me gently home to bed.
Michael Cosgrove
Houseboat, Lyon France
