Appreciating Lyon’s architecture from the River Saône Special

Tourists and locals escape the torrid summer heat here by finding fresh air, and where better to find it than on a boat cruising down the river? Lyon’s River Saône offers you the opportunity to cool down and enjoy the many splendid things to be seen.

Lyon has two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône. They represent a major element in both the heritage and the economy of this city. Countless songs, books, poems and paintings retrace their history back through the ages. The Rhône is bigger, stronger, wider, and popular folklore considers it to be the male counterpart to the Saône, which flows more gently, is a little narrower and has more bends, or curves as the analogy goes, and is thus considered to be more feminine. A boat ride on the Saône is a delightful way to see the city of Lyon from an original viewpoint which offers lovely views of the local architectural styles and historical features. A local boat company offers cruises several times a day in summer from the centre of Lyon towards the South, where Rhône and Saône meet, or ‘marry,’ and to the North, which is the direction that Jean-Marc Provent, who runs the company, invited me to take. I accepted his invitation with pleasure. You need a ticket of course, and Emilie Saëz will be there to look after your ticket and information needs, in good English if necessary.

Michael Cosgrove Emilie Saëz, ticket lady image:54259:6::0

Then it's down to the boat to be greeted with a hearty "Hello everyone and welcome aboard" from the Captain, and anchors aweigh. One of the first things you see is the splendid Fourvière Basilica. It has overlooked the city for hundreds of years.

Michael Cosgrove Fourvière Basilica, Lyon France image:54260:9::0

Much of Lyon was centred on the land side of the Saône before the island which is now downtown Lyon became fully developed. That’s why the Justice Palace was built on that side, in 1847. It was inspired by the columns of Ancient Greece and has welcomed many of the city’s most famous trials, including those of suspected French Collaborators in WWII who were charged with running Lyon’s notorious Gestapo prisons.

Michael Cosgrove Justice Palace, Lyon France image:54262:9::0

As the boat drifts North you get wonderful views of the Renaissance period buildings in the Saint Paul district. These buildings have to respect a strict colour code when they are repainted. This is designed to maintain and reflect the original style of the period. Here are some of them.

Michael Cosgrove Renaissance buildings, Lyon France image:54263:6::0

It's so good to be out there, with the wind ruffling your hair and the delicious accent of the hostess describing what you are looking at in English. This is a building that pleases many people on the cruise. An American lady exclaimed “Wow! I wanna go see that close up when we get back on land!” She will not be disappointed as she will then be able to appreciate the fine woodwork and doors close up.

Michael Cosgrove Renaissance building, Lyon France image:54264:6::0

The Music Conservatory of Lyon is a beautiful complex of buildings that deserves to be visited. There are some extremely elegant courtyards and statues within its walls. And, of course, there are the strains of budding Beethovens and Stravinskys to be heard drifting through the cool and airy stone corridors.

Michael Cosgrove Music Conservatory, Lyon France image:54266:8::0

The boat goes as far as the Barbe Island, which is situated in the middle of the river. It is named from the latin word ‘barbara’ which means ‘wild’ or ‘savage.’ It has had a monastery on it since the 5th century and was one of King Charlemagne’s preferred retreats. He even expressed his wish to end his days there. History decided otherwise.

Michael Cosgrove Monastery on Barbe Island, Lyon France image:54267:12::0

On the way back towards the city, you can see the remains of various old viaducts, military forts and fortresses. Here are a couple of examples.

Michael Cosgrove Fortress, Lyon France image:54268:8::0

The area shown below is a nice place to go if you are looking for a shady spot under a tree to eat a picnic or just enjoy the silence..

Michael Cosgrove Hillside, Lyon France image:54269:8::0

This is a mythical part of the city, the Croix-Rousse. It occupies a hill and its plateau and it was there that much of the city’s silk industry was concentrated for hundreds of years. It is well known for its artistic community nowadays. The boat turns around to offer a wonderful view of it before pulling back to the quayside and letting us disembark. Hundreds of photos were taken in the hour that little cruise took, and those on board will be taking home some wonderful memories...

Michael Cosgrove Croix-Rousse District, Lyon France image:54271:8::0

So the next time you're in Lyon, you now know one of the most relaxing and rewarding ways to see the sights. No traffic, no noise, just the humming of the motor, the gentle rolling and pitching of the boat, and the fresh, invigorating air of the River Saöne.