A Reporter's Inside Look at the Difficulties of Life in Tehran

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Time magazine shared the wrenching story of Azadeh Moaveni, an Iranian-American journalist, who gives a first-hand account of her experiences while living in Tehran the past three years. She recounts an event that occurred this summer while out walking with her baby in a stroller, enjoying the day with family and friends. Suddenly, she is stopped by a policewoman in a black chador (a full-length coat that is thrown over the head and held shut in front). The policewoman gestures for her to go toward a waiting bus, indicating she is to be arrested for her inappropriate dress. Azadeh protests, saying she has worn that particular head scarf for 5 years and has never had a problem. The trouble escalates as a male superior officer approaches and chastises her for the shortness of her shirt sleeves, which reveal her wrists. She is required to sign a document stating she will not dress like this in public again, and is forced to leave the area.

Many Iranians have been frustrated by these crackdowns, which seem to ease for a while, and then suddenly escalate without warning. The election of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in 2005 raised concerns that these strict Islamic dress codes and rules would be enforced, but Ahmadinejad insisted the country had more important things to be concerned about. But over the period of several months, things suddenly changed.

Tehran has become a different place. Convinced the U.S. is seeking to destabilize their Islamic system through economic pressure and covert infiltration of political life, the ruling clerics are retaking control of the public sphere ahead of next spring's parliamentary elections. "The more threatened the hard-liners feel, the more paranoid they will become," says Farideh Farhi, an Iran expert and professor of political science at the University of Hawaii.

Changes were first seen back in the spring, when authorities raided homes and kicked out and removed illegal satellite dishes, the Iranians link to news outside their country. Then, "a full-scale campaign of intimidation" began, in which approximately 150,000 people were detained for brief periods. Women went out and bought the more traditional and strict chador coats, and avoided going out in public whenever possible.

Such sweeping changes made Azadeh very nervous, and she began cancelling appointments and meetings with American friends, fearing such social meetings would be considered spying. She was afraid to write articles, not knowing what would cause her trouble with the government.

Other problems plague the nation as well. Even though Iran possesses vast oil reserves, it is unable to produce enough gas for its citizens. This prompted gas rationing over the summer, which caused long lines backing up at gas stations everywhere. Riots eventually broke out and gas stations were set on fire.

Azadeh reports that she was relieved to be leaving Tehran when she did (due to her husband starting graduate school in Europe). She believes the crackdowns serve to alienate the citizens from the government, and that it will be very difficult for them to trust the government any time soon.

As one observer explained:

It's hard to see how Ahmadinejad and his supporters will retain control of parliament in next spring's crucial elections. But "the hard-liners would rather rule over a population that fears them than one that likes them," explains my friend Karim Sadjadpour, an associate at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace.

The New York Times carried a similar article today, which recounted many of the incidents shared by Azadeh. Among the country's leading problems: "Rents are soaring, inflation hovers around 17 percent, and 10 million Iranians live below the poverty line."

Muhammad Atrianfar, publisher of two newspapers that have been closed and an ally of former president Ali Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani said, “As soon as the leader stops supporting him (Ahmadinejad), he can easily be impeached and dismissed.”

Ahmadinejad is also blamed for many of the economic problems facing citizens, because, according to local economists, he "fails to understand the effect of his policies."

You can read more individual stories from Iranian citizens in the NYT article, many of which reflect some of the hardships shared by the journalist in the Time's article.